Spain and Reliving The Years 1936-41

I need to finish an article on this subject, still coming to terms with my sentiments after spending Friday morning interviewing archeologists, who were working in the baking sun to excavate remains of the second largest mass grave recently discovered. 

There in front of me were the skeletons of 125 allegedly republican sympathizers (3 women) their deaths date from the civil war 1936 and to around 1941. Contemptuously thrown, into a 25 meter long hole along with their meager belongings, they had on them when arrested, money medals on chains, buttons, and shoes which had been made from the rubber of tyres. 40 families linked to these assassinations are still alive today. 

The most gratifying moment for these archeologists will be when, the remains are identified and returned to the relative families who can then give their loved ones a dignified burial. I took numerous photographs which I will publish with the completed article. Included is a second photo of the last vision of their village as they were lined up against the local cemetery wall to be executed without trial.  May they rest in peace.

Rosalinda Powell fox, daughter of the Raj and Spain

A woman has not lived, unless she has been loved and hated, envied and talked about

Japanese proverb 

I have been lucky enough to have spent many hours talking, asking questions and passing many a warm afternoon in the shade of the flower scented patio at the home of this great aristocratic and beautiful woman who passed away at the enviable age of ninety six.

Rosalinda daughter of the Raj spent most of her youth in India where she married at the tender age of 16.   After given birth to her only child Jonny, she developed bovine tuberculosis. Diagnosed as incurable her husband lost interest in his ailing wife and with a pension of 30 pounds a month she rejoined her family in Britain.  Her mother and sisters concerned for her feeble health sent her to Switzerland to be treated by a family friend and well known doctor.

 Strapped to her bed with her small son by her side and a typewriter gently resting on her chest, she began to write her enchanting book later to be published under the title “The Grass and the Asphalt” Bored and jaded Rosalinda called her medic and posed the question about her life expectancy.  ‘Seven to eight years if you stay in bed’  ‘Bring me my clothes she ordered’ and in 1935 headed to warmer climates.  Spain and Portugal would be more beneficial for her delicate health.  With the intimidation of her mortality always present she began her mysterious adventures.

Whilst attending the German Olympics in 1936 she met the then Spanish military attaché in Berlin, Colonel Juan Luis Beigbeder who would later become her lover and subsequently minister for the exterior in the Government of Francisco Franco.  Her relationship with this interesting man, many years her senior was to have serious repercussions on Rosalinda’s life.  During World War II Franco suspected her of spying for the British.  Britain took the opposing view and she was refused entry into Gibraltar.  Undeniably she had a great influence on Col. Beigbeder, one of the motives for which Franco had Beigbeder put under house arrest in Ronda. Rumour has it that Churchill stated ‘the war might have taken a very different course where it not for Rosalinda’ Spain had courted the Axis powers during Franco’s rule. 

Rosalinda was also arrested in Morocco by the French when she alleged that she was an unwilling witness to the French army’s intention to invade the Spanish zone. It leaves little to the imagination as to why this robust voyager had driven miles to the French area on a road hardly fit for donkeys.

This most unusual and valiant lady was indeed a bizarre sight driving around Spain in a Rolls Royce. She also spent time in the famous cafes of Madrid frequented by members of Franco’s government and high society.    She travelled to Portugal when it became too dangerous for anyone implicated with the regime to stay in Spain. There she was known to have collaborated with the American intelligence services.

With the end of the war, Rosalinda headed to Guadarranque where she bought a property to await the release of her cherished Juan. Here he would live out the rest of his life enjoying the views across the bay to his much beloved Africa.  Their personal house was built and the interior refurbished with exquisite carved wood from their residence in Tetuan. It had been rather painful for me to have learnt that the present habitants of the property have removed some of these wooden panels.                     

On the shore of the bay of Gibraltar, this little haven comprised of several chozas (huts) where few locals resided. Rosalinda immediately ordered the building of brick houses, which to this day have the British bulldog above their entrances.  She also had a small wall erected to prevent the river flooding the village and planted many trees. This articulate personality planned and spoke about her plans for a book about her existence in this locality.   Unfortunately she was never to write the book and to this day the facts relating to her life and properties, in what is still a small hamlet are obscured by intrigue and mystery. But this is another story

Feliz Navidad. Written for the expatriate community via The Resident.

The difficulties experienced by the non Spanish communities when trying to talk to the Spanish service providers is evident. Long term residents who speak the  Spanish language still have to struggle when dealing with the bureaucracy or some other entity with an issue that should be quite simple, like communicating with the water or electric board or the telephone companies. Firstly you try by phone. If you are lucky and persist that means not put the phone down after 20 minutes and add to that the cost of almost the same figure in euro. Not enough that you find that you have been overcharged on your latest bill but to have to use an expensive phone line to try to communicate that to somebody. Be careful asking for an operator who speaks English. If you are fortunate, twenty more expensive minutes later and you could hear an engaged tone. This is frustrating when you have just explained the problem for the third time to someone who does speak your language. Try getting back to that person. You have more chance of winning the lottery. If you do get through, have at least some knowledge of uno dos tres and up the fourteen in Spanish, depending on the department you think you may need to assist you. One presumes that you have given up when you drag yourself out to visit the relevant office. Take a flask and a folding chair. If you are wondering why various locals who entered fifteen minutes later than you, steps up to the counter just when you thought, after patiently tapping your foot that at last it was your turn. This is easily explained. They were in earlier, claimed his or her place in the queue and then went off to have a coffee or do some shopping to return just in time to reclaim their position ignoring the ever growing line of people. Be prepared, whichever service provider you are dealing with and whatever the problem, it will always be your fault. I am told by a Spaniard that it is pride that prohibits a Spaniard from saying “sorry our mistake” Ever heard that expression here? When you do get to the counter and the person serving you is somewhat a little grumpy because it’s now lunch time. Stand your ground. If you falter due to nerves and the poor knowledge of the language, you are lost. You will be sent off with a plethora of excuses. You know the standard ones. “No not this department or you need your NIE, passport, birth certificate, padron or nota simple and don’t forget whatever age you are, your parents names” If the strain takes over and you forget that your dear mum was called Agnes, make up a name. Then as you attempt your best Spanish, it slowly dawns on the nice person behind the counter that you are going to be hard work. Look out for the slow but obvious changing facial expressions and the straining as if you cannot be heard. You may be tempted to look behind you to see what smell has entered this space but the truth of the matter is that the person you are trying to communicate with does not have the slightest idea what you are trying to say. Taking your Spanish phrase book with you will only mean that you will be out of the door quicker. It will be immediate proof that this appointment will take some time. As Christmas is upon us, I would like to end on an optimistic note. If your phone packs up, electric supply cuts off or you have no water. You will not have to face any of the abovementioned problems as during the festive season most service providers will be shut or on the anise. Feliz Navidad.

About Andalucia. Land of Contrasts

With more than 150 kilometres of golden beaches bathed by a blue and inviting Mediterranean, where the sun shines practically all the year round. The Costa del Sol is truly a jewel on the eastern coastline of a culture filled Andalusia.

This perfect micro climate  the relaxed atmosphere, the warmth and joíe de vivre of the locals has made this extraordinary part of Spain a most desirable and sought after place to live and invest. With the close proximity to most European capitals, it's not surprising that this paradise has been named the California of Europe.

The colonization of many ancient civilizations such as the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and almost eight hundred years of Moorish rule has left its legacy on its culture, examples of this can be seen on the beautiful architectural designs of the regions many monuments and palaces. These are influenced mainly by the Moorish and Renaissance styles. The Traditional Roman interior patios are filled with the aroma of sweet scented jasmine and the vibrant coloured bougainvillea.

Nature has endowed this part of Spain with a magnificent and impressive range of mountains, the Sierra's, allowing a special kind of rural tourism. Europe’s most southwest championship ski resorts and the Iberian Peninsula’s highest summit is only two hours drive from the Costa’s sunny beaches. Sheltered harbours and a calm Mediterranean Sea has allowed for various water sport activities and is a favourite place for sailing. Fishing is a very popular sport and most ports provide exciting fishing trips. Andalusia is steeped in Equestrian tradition, Spanish horses are believed to be the oldest breed of saddle horse in the world, and have been widely used as stock for today's sports breed. It is therefore not surprising that this area has been recognised as a polo favourite, add to this the Costa Del Sol professional race course, equestrian events, trekking and dressage exhibitions and there is something for all the family.

Costa Del Golf has become a catch phrase. The coast boasts numerous top quality courses with clubs such as Sotogrande hosting International championships. Many selective and prestigious properties can be found in the natural settings of these magnificent clubs.
Spain is famous for its nightlife. You can dine in the ambiance of a traditional Spanish patio, listen to the evocative flamenco guitar and watch a show, dance into the early hours, and walk along beautifully lit promenades, stopping at various bars to sample the vast range of the local tapas served with the regions best wines or just stroll along the beach at sunset.

Spain is notably a country with traditions of catering for its children, providing them with a safe and secure environment. There are many activities such as water parks, nature reserves and numerous children's playgrounds, not to mention the local fiestas and ferias. Children are welcome to join in on all aspects of local life. Due to the increase of foreign residents there are many International top grade schools and many friendly local schools